Friday, October 29, 2010

Me again...

October 12th, 2010

If you thought it doesn’t get cold in Morocco-think again! It is freezing here! It has rained on and off for two days now, with extremely high winds, and even a bit of freezing rain. Today was the day with freezing rain and as it would be we had to walk a mile and half to and then back from the next village over for a naming ceremony. We were soaked and freezing when we got there. According to Islam, when a baby is born it isn’t named until the 7th day. On the 7th day, the family kills a sheep and declares the child’s name. If the family can afford to they have a celebration in their home on that day. The celebration consists of friends and family gathering at the house for tea, sweets, eating the sheep, music, drums and dancing. It was a great cross-cultural experience, but as our language is not quite up to par yet, there was a slight feeling of awkwardness.

October 13th, 2010

It was a little warmer today, but not much. We all sat in class huddled in blankets, trying to focus on learning and not on the cold. With all the rain it is extremely muddy everywhere, so running in the mornings is out of the question. Now I know why the packing list included a jump rope! Luckily I brought one and will try it out tomorrow morning in room, while listening to my iPod J Bucket bath to follow, which won’t be as nice as usual as I’ll be sitting in the cold air…my house is substantially warmer than our school house though-as mine is adobe and the school is concrete, so no huddling around in blankets at home too.

On a slightly random note:

I found out today that no one in my CBT group knows what Old Bay Seasoning is… which is just crazy to me, although I bet those of you in England probably don’t know what it is either! It’s a seasoning used for crabs and other dishes. All you really need to know is that it is good!

This weekend some of my friends from other CBT (community based training) sites are coming to visit. There are about 7 people coming, which is pretty cool. I am excited to show them my village. In total, there are 5 CBT groups for Small Business Development here in Morocco. Out of those, my group is the only one in a small Berber village and we are the only ones learning Tamazight. Everyone else is still located in the Middle Atlas Region, but they are in sites with thousands of people and they are all learning Moroccan Arabic. Needles to say, my group is proud of our elite status—we call ourselves the chosen ones. J The others arrive late Saturday afternoon. We are going to Emily’s (the volunteer’s who is actually posted here for her two years of service) house for enchiladas and some well-deserved chill out time. Everyone is staying the night, as we aren’t allowed to travel after dark. On Sunday, we are going to hike the mountain, which I live at the base of and then in the afternoon everyone will head back to their sites via grand taxi’s (there’s nothing grand about them). So I am looking forward to the weekend!

October 24, 2010

Where did the past 11 days go?! Whoops…well the reunion at Emily’s house was good. The food was delicious and it was fun to hear everyone’s stories. The hike was awesome and the pictures are below to prove it.

Here are a few of my latest cross-cultural experiences:

à Hemam
Although there are no showers or even bathtubs in the houses here, there are Hemam’s in every village. A Hemam is a public bathhouse. The Hemam in my village is open everyday from 6am-11am and 7pm-11pm for men, and 12pm-6pm for women. It consists of three rooms (warm-hot-Hot). You take a stool, bucket, and scrub glove/toiletries with you each time you visit the Hemam. The entire place (including the water) is heated via massive wood stoves located under the building. After bucket bathing twice a week for all this time-the Hemam is pure luxury. Moroccan spa time. I’ve been twice in the past two weeks and would go more often, but the opening time during the week clashes with school time and so I can only go on the weekends. It only costs 8dH to get in which is roughly $1. Some of the girls are freaked out by the whole ‘public bath’ concept, but not me, although I guess it was the most boobs I’ve ever seen at once in my life and for the first 15 minutes or so I was overwhelmed and didn’t know where to look! Oh, and you wear underwear or bikini bottoms so it’s not a completely commando scene, although some of the women chose to make it a partial one…And I guess I should mention it’s not as relaxing as one would think as the women take the children with them so there are screaming kids everywhere and it’s already pretty crowded and noisy as it’s not a big place. All in all though, Ei’ji’bi—I like!

à Milking the cows
We went to Sam’s house (fellow PCT in my village) as he lives on a farm to milk a cow after school one day. None of us had ever milked a cow before. It was pretty funky. It’s not as easy as you think either. In fact, I pulled on the ‘teet’ for an awkward three minutes and got nothing. Thanks cow, way to make me look good. It was comic relief though, as we are all pretty burned out with language training all day, every day. In fact I made great use of the whole thing and practiced by asking Sam’s mom (the owner of the farm),  “Mani mus? Rig adzzig mus. LHlib n mus ssklat!” Which translates to, “Where is the cat I want to milk the cat. The milk of the cat is chocolate!” I’m sure they think I am crazy, but everyone was laughing J

à Naming Ceremony
I’ve been to two naming ceremonies now. The first one was the one that we trekked through the mini winter storm to get to. The second took place this weekend and was much more enjoyable! I packed an overnight bag and went to Azrou with my host family after class on Saturday. My host mom’s cousin had a baby last week and all of her extended family was at the cousin’s house in Azrou for the naming ceremony. It was a good test for my language skills as it was just me and my host family and all their family-no English speakers. We arrived around 4pm and ate straight away. Two chickens with sauce and olives to start, a huge slab of lamb with figs for the main, and grapes for dessert. After ‘lunch’ (which I had already had at school before we left for Azrou!) we walked into town and wandered around Azrou for a couple of hours. When we returned to the house, tea was waiting along with assorted cakes and sweets. Immediately after tea was dinner-which was the exact same meal as lunch. I was absolutely stuffed by the end of it all. Pretty sure I ate enough meat in one day to last the whole week through! The baby was adorable, but so tiny! I think I will be attending a lot of naming ceremonies over the next couple years, as someone always seems to be pregnant around here…

October 25, 2010

Five days left until we all head back to the hub in Azrou-and we are all very very excited! This Saturday is when we find out our site assignments (where we will be living for the next two years and what our job assignments are). To date, all we have been told is that four of us will be going somewhere down to the South (the desert!) and one of us will be fairly close to where we are now. I put in a request to be one of the four going down South. I don’t really mind, but I thought since I have gotten to know everyone here over the past month, it would be kind of nice to be fairly close to them over the next two years.

The weather is cold, but mild. The sun is hot. We have class on the roof almost everyday as it’s much nicer up there. Even though it is cold I haven’t worn my new winter jacket yet as the sun is so warm during the day and I rarely leave the house at night. The two main reasons for that is that the local dogs (which are all stray’s as no one has pets here) become fairly aggressive once it is dark. It is necessary to carry rocks in your hands if you are walking at night as a gentle hurl of one, in a barking dogs general direction usually clears them away. The other reason is that Peace Corps prohibits us from traveling once the sun goes down, for safety as the drivers here are insanely crazy and that is only magnified after dark.
I’ve received letters from a handful of you and I can’t tell you how happy they make me J Getting mail is majorly exciting. Even more exciting is knowing that I will be able to receive care packages starting in January…hint hint :P

On a girly note, I went to souk yesterday to help Malika with the school’s weekly grocery shopping. In one section of souk, there are tons of tables of second hand clothes and shoes. I was digging through everything, not really looking for anything in particular, just satisfying my inner need to shop, and there they were fluffy and beautiful staring at me…some crazy person, somewhere in the world, got rid of their almost brand new tan Ugg’s and a greater force sent them to Morocco, to my souk town, Guigo, where they were patiently waiting for me to buy them—for $5. That’s right $5. For all you guys that don’t know, Ugg’s are a winter boot (although many wear them year round) that became a craze in the fashionista world. You either love them or hate them; obviously I’m a lover. They run anywhere from $125+, so this was a very exciting find. I may not have a sit down toilet, or running hot water, or a shower, my hair is nappy and I haven’t worn make up in over a month-but, my feet look damn good in their new haven.

Until Saturday and the big news,

Bslama d Thlla g ixfnmn.

Goodbye and take care of yourselves. xxx
Azrou from the Naming Ceremony house
Jen, Tyler and Me on top of the Mid Atlas Mountains
Me on top of the Mid Atlas Mountains
View from the top...
Walking back into my village

Annie & Me on top of the Mid Atlas Mountains








2 comments:

  1. Wonderful. Just wonderful Annemarie! The long wait for further news was well worth it, as you give such descriptive accounts of your recent experiences. So thanks for all the details. I almost feel that I'm there with you.
    Good luck today with your new posting assignment and wrap up warm as winter approaches. Much love as usual from Granddadxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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